Last week I received brochures from both The Platinum Guild and World Gold Council, espousing the benefits of their respective metals. However, during the purchasing process many consumers take advice from a jewellery sales person and end up bereft of any useful facts on the subject.
Above: World Gold Council and Platinum Guild Brochures
The fact of the matter is, is that both white gold and platinum both have their own unique properties and hence benefits. By and large, many of these are not explained too well to the would be jewellery buyer, but are outlined below.
Hardness vs Malleability???!!!
Two properties of metals that aren’t well understood by the jewellery industry as a whole and jewellery consumers are hardness and malleability. In fact, when I told my own jewellers that platinum was softer than white gold, I received nothing but protests.
Put simply, hardness refers to a metal’s resistance to scratching and denting. A hard metal, just like diamond, the hardest material known, will be resistant to scratches, whilst a soft metal will scratch easily. Malleability refers to how easy a metal is to bend and turn into different shapes without breaking. A malleable metal will bend easily, whilst a brittle metal will not bend easily.
Whilst it may be true that platinum is harder than gold in its purest form, 18kt white gold is mixed with other metals, most commonly palladium, silver and copper to make it harder. This results in 18kt white gold being harder than platinum alloys, which are most commonly 95% platinum.
On the other hand, platinum is more brittle than white gold, and is hard to bend and hammer into shape, which may explain the aforementioned protests from my jewellers.
What the hardness and malleability of white gold and platinum means in real life is that a platinum ring will be easily scratched and dented, but will hold diamonds and other gemstones more securely, as platinum is less prone to bending due to its brittleness. However, to get the best of both worlds, we have been encouraging our clients to buy rings with a platinum setting and a white gold band. This results in a more secure setting for the centre diamond, whilst the white gold band results in less scratches and dents.
Platinum’s softness versus white gold is also the main reason why we don’t recommend platinum for mens’ wedding rings.
Density and Weight
Platinum alloys are about 20% denser than white gold. This results in a ring that feels more substantial, and thus more luxurious, even though it may be very fine.
Price
With the spot price of platinum and gold being very much the same nowadays, many people ask us why platinum is still more expensive that white gold. There are four main reasons for this:
- Platinum is denser, and thus more material weight is needed to produce the same ring than from white gold.
- Platinum alloys used in jewellery are purer. Since most platinum alloys are 95% platinum and 18kt white gold is 75% gold, less gold is require to produce an 18kt white gold ring.
- Platinum is more difficult to work with, and often needs a jeweller with experience to produce a good job. Therefore, the labour cost is roughly 20% more than with white gold.
- Platinum can not be re-used and re-melted like white gold. Therefore, any scraps and filings must be sent to a refiner which is very expensive.
White Gold Allergies
One of the benefits espoused by The Platinum Guild is that platinum is hypoallergenic. Whilst this is true, so is most 18kt white gold, in Australia at least. Whilst nickel was commonly used to alloy white gold in the past, most manufacturing jewellers in Australia use a palladium based alloy that is free from nickel. However, nickel, being a much cheaper metal than palladium is still used widely overseas, and thus some people may suffer from nickel allergies with imported jewellery.
Colour
One of the myths about white gold is that it is slightly yellow, and thus, requires more maintenance as it needs rhodium plating every year or two.
Again, nickel based alloys are more likely to have a yellow tinge, whilst palladium based alloys are more likely to have a dark grey appearance when compared to platinum, as shown below.
Above: White gold and Platinum in square wire form.
Durability
Platinum loses very little weight during day to day wear and indeed, during polishing. Therefore, in theory a platinum ring will last a lot longer without the need for replacing the band. However, a well made ring, whether white gold or platinum should last for generations.
Serviceability
White gold is more widely serviceable than platinum, meaning that more jewellers are able to resize and repair white gold jewellery. In addition to this, platinum’s higher melting temperature pose a risk to gemstones and diamonds that may get burnt when repairing platinum jewellery. However, modern tools such as laser welders and an experienced platinum jeweller eliminate these problems.
Investment
Since gold is a widely traded asset and investment, gold in both pure and alloy form is a lot easier to sell than platinum. Whilst numerous gold buyers have sprung up in recent times, very few of these buy platinum.
AUD 
June 23rd, 2013 at 7:16 pm
This is the first intelligible discussion of white gold and platinum that I have found.
My son (Ian) and I have bought diamond rings from you in the past and value your advice. I have just bought a beautiful opal stone for my wife’s 80th birthday and I would like to have it set in a pendant in white gold or platinum (preferably platinum). Could you recommend a good jeweller?
Kind regards
Don
June 24th, 2013 at 9:32 am
Hi Don
Thanks for you comments.
Please ring us on 1800 722 237 or 08 9218 9865 so we can recommend a jeweller that is local to you.
July 30th, 2013 at 9:07 am
“By enlarge”? Do you think the ring won’t fit? Might not you mean(?):
https://www.straightdope.com/columns/read/1908/what-is-the-origin-of-by-and-large
July 30th, 2013 at 10:38 am
OK, thanks.
September 11th, 2013 at 5:32 pm
Very descriptive and true, but you can easily remelt platinum or the like by wearing very dark glasses as for oxyacetylene welders operators, then on a crucible without any flux yo use the very center of the torch flame (the hottest area) and melts in seconds!
Arpol
September 11th, 2013 at 5:47 pm
Hi Arpol
The problem isn’t so much in melting, but melting it into something that doesn’t have cracks or filled with porosity. It’s much less headache to send platinum off to the refiner!
October 7th, 2013 at 8:32 am
Hi Arpol,
What would you recommend for diamond earrings? Platinum setting with white gold stems?
Cherie
October 7th, 2013 at 10:51 am
Hi Cherie
Platinum would be good for earrings, but the availability of pre-made Platinum earrings is very limited in Australia.
October 7th, 2013 at 3:34 pm
Thanks for answering Nikhil!
Cherie
October 29th, 2013 at 6:03 am
Hi
Is it possible to have a 18kt yellow gold ring with platinum setting securing the diamond?
Thanks
October 29th, 2013 at 8:44 am
Yes, that is no problem.
November 27th, 2013 at 1:43 pm
The problem with the Jewellery Trade is, there are not enough Jewellers working in it. No Jeweller that has completed their trade course would give the wrong information about hardness and malleability as they would understand the structure and characteristics of the metals they use. The Jewellery Trade in Australia principally consists of retailers selling rubbish and this has become increasingly the case since the mid 70’s.
If you want to buy Jewellery of quality and know that you are getting what your paying for ask to speak to the Jeweller and ask to see their trade papers, any good Jeweller will be happy to oblige.
So it’s not so much there are things Jewellers don’t want the public to know, it’s more a case of the public dealing with retailers who don’t know. Do yourself a favour and next time you want to purchase good quality Jewellery, seek out a qualified Tradesman / Tradeswoman, after all, you wouldn’t let some backyard plumber or electrician do a couple of grands worth of dodgy work on your home would you?
January 30th, 2014 at 10:21 am
I wanted to ask, My husband bought me an engagement ring for in 2004. We were told the crown that holds the diamond was made of Platinum because it was stronger and would hold the diamond in place much better than white or yellow gold. One of the prongs bent after 9 years so I took the ring off and placed it in a safe place until I could take it in for repair. We purchased it from Whitehalls in Hickory NC… In 2008 they went out of business. After inquiring about a reputable Jeweler to take the ring to we then gave them the ring. They inspected the ring and I told one of the employees that the crown was made of Platinum and one of the post bent and the diamond fell out. She then took the ring to the back to be inspected by the jeweler. Afterwards she came out and told us it would be $48.00 dollars to repair it and it would take a week to get it back. Two weeks went by and I had not heard from them. I called and she said they were waiting on a new crown to be shipped in. I said what crown… No one told me you were having to replace the crown. She said what no one called you and I said no. She put me on hold and came back and said there would not be any additional charge. Another week and a half went by and nothing so and I called them back and spoke with someone else. He said he was still waiting on the crown but should have it ready by the following week. He said they were waiting on the white gold crown and it had been back ordered. I told him the crown was made of Platinum and he told me no he thought it was made of white gold. He said I can do it in Platinum but it will cost you a 100.00 dollars more on top of what they had already quoted me. He said if the ring was made of Platinum it would have had 18k with a pt inside the band. He then gave me this speech of how much more durable the white gold was to set the the diamond into the crown. I told him we were told Platinum was stronger for holding diamonds in place and he said well someone lied to you that is not so, white gold is stronger. Now I am suppose to pick the ring up tomorrow and am confused. All I cared about was making sure my diamond was secure. We paid over $5.000.00 for just the engagement ring. I am now scared because every thing I am reading it says the Platinum is stronger for holding the diamonds in place. I now don’t know if I trust this company. How do I protect myself and is it true that Platinum is stronger for holding the diamond in place. Also one other question.. Being a Jeweler would he not be able to tell the difference between white gold and Platinum. He said you cannot tell the difference by looking at it. He said to even test it he would have to remove the crown away from the yellow gold band because with them together it would give a false reading.
Thank You
Arlene Belk
January 30th, 2014 at 1:28 pm
Hi Arlene
Your jeweller is right in saying if it was Platinum, there would be a Platinum stamp or hallmark inside the band, although the original jeweller could have made the fundamental mistake of not stamping it. You can not tell the difference when new between rhodium plated white gold and platinum, but an experienced jeweller should be able to determine the type of metal.
February 19th, 2014 at 1:29 pm
Hello there. After only 4 years, a small emerald cut diamond fell out from my eternity ring which is made out of white gold. I noticed that the ring is slightly oval shaped, no longer perfect circle which surprised me, as I am careful with my jewellery. Possible bad workmanship or white gold just not strong enough? Each of the 5 emerald cuts (.20ct) sit horizontal in a line on the top of the ring, and have 4 claws on each.
This leaves me wondering as I am about to have my white gold engagement ring reset into 3 large emerald cut diamonds!! Thank you…
February 19th, 2014 at 3:24 pm
Hi Narelle
It is best to take the ring back to where you bought it.
March 26th, 2014 at 8:49 pm
Hi, I was just wondering if you wear titanium (hardness 6) next to a rhodium plated white gold ring (rhodium is hardness 6 whereas gold is 3) will this cause wear? Also, when people talk of the two metals rubbing and wearing, what kind of time frame are they talking about? Will the rings be significantly damaged within 10 years, say?
Thanks.
Jaci
March 27th, 2014 at 9:41 am
Hi Jaci
It really depends on factors such as the design of the two rings and how they are worn. You might want to consult a jeweller and have the two rings soldered or spot welded together.
May 26th, 2014 at 9:44 pm
Hi, I have an engagement ring with an 18ct yellow gold band and a diamond claw set in platinum. I am looking at a wedding band with a half band of claw set diamonds set in platinum (half of the band will be 18ct gold and half platinum). I’m wondering whether the platinum claw setting on the wedding band will wear down the gold band on my engagement ring? I would like a ring that wears well over time and preferably won’t need to be reset.
I am getting conflicting information from jewelers with one stating the claws on the wedding band will wear down and another stating that platinum claws won’t wear down but may scratch/ wear down the gold engagement ring band. One jeweler recommended a grain set 18ct wedding band rather than claw set – what is your opinion?
Thanks
May 27th, 2014 at 3:13 pm
Hi Stacey
It’s likely the gold will wear the platinum claws down. A grain set wedder would be a good idea as it will wear well over time. You may also want to investigate joining the wedding band and engagement ring together if you do go for the platinum claw setting.
August 7th, 2014 at 2:57 pm
Thank you ao much for this.
My girlfriend, hopefully soon to be fiance, has a gold allergy and I thought platinum was my only option, as a jewellery sales person told me that after the Rhodium plating wore off she would experience allergy symptoms again. Now white gold is back on the table 🙂
Thanks again
November 21st, 2014 at 1:29 am
Hi Nikhil,
My diamond white gold wedding ring lasted only for 6 months and than 3 diamonds fell. The jeweler claimed that it was my fault and that I did not take care of it. After the ring was repaired by the same jeweler, one month later, 2 diamonds fell again. I requested refund but jeweler accepts only to redo the ring. What would you suggest?
Thank you.
November 24th, 2014 at 1:30 pm
Hi Gabriela
It is difficult to say without looking at the ring.
January 19th, 2015 at 1:22 pm
Dude learn how to write. “The fact of the matter is” and “put simply” in the first few paragraphs.
I recommend ‘on writing well’ or ‘revising prose’.
Less is more bra.
February 3rd, 2015 at 7:46 am
Hello, Please help me!
Some kind of rings brake me out n turn my finger green! About to be married and I do not want to end up suffering every day after I do’s! What kind/type of ring would you recommend that wouldn’t do this?
February 3rd, 2015 at 4:54 pm
Hi Mindy
It would be best to ask the person you bought it from what alloy the ring is made from. The most common allergy is from nickel, which is a common metal used in white gold in North America. You may also want to consult your doctor regarding this.
February 13th, 2015 at 6:15 am
Question for you – I had a platinum ring repaired by a jeweler – center stone came loose – and noticed the underside of the ring, looked cleaned up. The ring was not originally made well. I remember there being large lumps of metal underneath & now it’s clean. Is it possible for a jeweler to take out excess metal from the underside of a platinum ring? Viewing in the loop, it sure looks machine manipulated.
February 13th, 2015 at 12:36 pm
Hi Dee
You will have to ask a jeweller if they can do the work you require, as I can’t comment without seeing the piece.
February 21st, 2015 at 10:37 am
Is 18K white Gold really to soft for a daily ring or is it just what people think? Do most of the ring repairs you do is on 18k not as much on 14 k?
I don’t know what to decide yet…
February 23rd, 2015 at 9:11 am
Hi Marie
Unlike North America, in Australia, we don’t use 14kt gold.
April 9th, 2015 at 4:52 pm
I am going to purchasing a .45ct F VVS1 loose diamond from Jogia and want it for an earring stud.
I have been told that the best setting would be a screw style stud with 4 claws. What would be the best metal combination for the stud?
April 9th, 2015 at 6:15 pm
Hi Joe
Platinum would be the best metal if available.
April 30th, 2015 at 8:15 am
Hi Nikhil, I work in a jewellery store and your article has helped me so much in explaining the pros and cons of each metal to customers. Regarding a white gold band with a platinum setting, how are the metals joined together? Given the differences in malleability and hardness of each metal is there a chance that this may compromise the integrity of the setting?
I have seen a lot of yellow centre diamonds in a white gold/ white diamond halo setting however with yellow gold claws around the centre stone for aesthetics, would this combination be possible however using platinum rather than the white gold in the halo?
Thanks, Alexandra
May 4th, 2015 at 6:47 am
Hi there,
Two questions for you out. Firstly what would be a fair price to set a.diamond solitaire in white gold or platinum. Just a plain ring with a 4 claw setting. Secondly do you know any talented jewellers in Brisbane that would do a good job. I got a price of $3500 to do the ring in platinum which I thought seemed excessive for a simple ring.
May 5th, 2015 at 3:15 pm
Hi Alexandra
Thank you for your input. The setting is soldered on the the shank using white gold solder, and given most rings are made in two or more pieces, the integrity of the setting is not compromised. Likewise, there is no problem with soldering yellow gold to Platinum.
May 5th, 2015 at 3:18 pm
Hi James
A fair price for a simple Platinum solitaire would be $1300 – $2000. You may want to google “David Lenneberg” as he is a jeweller in Brisbane who specialises in Platinum.
June 26th, 2015 at 12:11 pm
I have just had a platinum wedding made in Thailand where I am living at the moment, the guy in the shop told me it would be 5 mm width and about 20g in weight of platinum PT900 plain band with a flat top I wanted it to be thick (heavy), I was very disappointed when I saw the ring, the weight was only 11.5 grams, and not flat on the top, and too big in size. I asked them to melt it down and make a new ring by adding more platinum and to make the ring heavier. They said it was not possible to melt platinum to do this is that true? He said my only option was to have a a new ring made with new platinum, and I will only get scrap weight for the new ring I just had made.
July 6th, 2015 at 8:35 am
Hi Joel
For most jewellers, it is not possible to reliably melt Platinum into a reusable form to re-make a ring.
July 23rd, 2015 at 11:14 am
The engagement ring I am having made is being constructed from platinum with micropave arrangement of diamonds around 80% of the band. The head setting for the center stone is the V type setting for a princess cut stone. My question is that since the head setting prongs will also have diamonds in micropave style going up the side of the prongs. I was originally told platinum on the band is ok, but I should do the head in white gold instead since it will secure the side diamonds better in day-to-day use, but now I’m unsure with a few articles saying platinum is best to secure at least center stones. Not knowing how this theory relates to microwave, my question is should I still do the head in platinum too or go with white gold to best secure the micropave prong diamonds? Thanks!
July 23rd, 2015 at 2:59 pm
Hi Jeff
Platinum would be a better choice for micropave setting.
October 25th, 2015 at 4:34 pm
I was told my ring was platinum. Now 36 years later I need to have the ring resized larger. Jeweller told me it was white gold not platinum. It has 18kt stamp. It has never been plated Its colour for many years has been a soft grey/dull silver. From memory, it may have been lighter in col I ur, but it has never been shiny silver. From what I read, white gold can be made 75% gold and either 25% palladium or platinum. How can I ensure that if the ring is enlarged, it is made using the same mixture as the original?
October 26th, 2015 at 9:42 am
Hi Sonja
An 18kt stamp indicates that it is indeed white gold. A reputable jeweller should be able to size it for you using the same or similar alloy.
October 29th, 2015 at 4:46 am
Hi Nikhil, in the initial stages of ring shopping and the gf wants a pavé setting. Would you recommend a platinum or white gold for the band? After reading your article i am thinking platinum to better hold the smaller diamonds, but you are the expert. Thanks!
October 29th, 2015 at 4:00 pm
Yes, I think Platinum would be a better option for pave setting.
November 23rd, 2015 at 2:20 pm
Hi Nikhil, I just placed an order for 2 white gold 18 Kt wedding bands with brush finish. I am being told it would turn yellow after 1 year and I would have to polish it. What would you suggest, stick with white or go for platinum instead. Thanks in advance.
November 24th, 2015 at 3:32 pm
Hi Guru
It depends on what the white gold is alloyed with. Palladium alloys will stay very white, whilst nickel based alloys will tend to go yellow.
December 6th, 2015 at 3:47 pm
Dear Nikhil,
Excellent information on Gold Vs Platinum. Here in Mumbai, India there are very few jewellers who deal in platinum rings or jewellery. The rate of platinum is 20% lower than gold but still the making and wastage is way higher than gold.I have decided to go with platinum for my anniversary gift. Let see how it turns out to be..
Regards
Sanjay
January 6th, 2016 at 3:30 pm
What is whiter in colour – platinum or 18k White gold? I’ve also been told that platinum can’t be re used but I did come across a jeweller who said it just takes a particular process – I’d like to re-use the platinum to have my ring reset if possible but want to make sure it’ll be as good as it can be – should I trust this jeweller? He said he’s been in the trade for 40 years. Thank you
January 7th, 2016 at 10:20 am
Hi Sandra
Platinum is “brighter” than white gold, which is darker, or greyer than Platinum. In regards to Platinum being re-used – yes – it is possible, but can be very hap-hazard.
January 31st, 2016 at 6:01 pm
Hello,
A few questions: do you know any reputable jewlers in bangkok?
Secondly I want to run this past you as I’m confused:
I live in bangkok and rings tarnish here due to the heat.
– which is best at avoiding this: platinum or whit3 gold?
Lastly: I want a round brilliant setting with 4 or 6 prongs (haven’t decided) with a pave band. Should I go for platinum band + all prong settings? (Main diamond too)?
Thanks!
February 5th, 2016 at 4:33 pm
Hi Sarah
I’m not sure about Bangkok, but neither white gold nor Platinum will tarnish.
Platinum is a “more secure” metal for holding diamonds.
February 8th, 2016 at 4:45 am
Hi Nikhil,
I have recently developed an allergy to my 9k and 14k gold jewellery. I’m assuming it is an allergy to the nickel in the jewellery. Do you think it would be safe to assume that I would be fine with any 18k gold, yellow or white? Or do you recommend switching to white gold or platinum? Also, do you have any recommendations for a jeweller in Brisbane that does 18k gold or platinum earrings without a stone?
Thanks in advance,
Bec
February 8th, 2016 at 4:40 pm
Hi Bec
It would be best to consult a doctor to confirm your allergy and then seek a non nickel based gold or platinum alloy for jewellery. I’m not sure about any jewellers in Brisbane though.
March 8th, 2016 at 4:03 pm
Hi Nikhil
I am looking for a plain 2.5-3mm wedding band and was going to go for platinum so I didn’t need to have my ring rhodium played every year, then I saw some posts online about platinum ‘patina’. Do you have any information on this? What does patina mean? My understanding is that the ring turns gray.
Thank you in advance,
Whitney
March 9th, 2016 at 6:19 pm
Hi Whitney
The patina is the finish that platinum will develop when it is dented and scratched. Generally this only develops on the bottom of the ring, and can be removed by polishing the ring.
June 23rd, 2016 at 3:51 am
Great Information about Australia’s Oldest Internet Diamond Merchant, thanks for sharing.
July 13th, 2016 at 6:24 am
I was going to have a black cabochon opal set. I thought it may be nice to use platinum. However the jewelry designer recommended 22-24 ct. gold. What is your opinion. It is an 8 ct opal, oblong
July 13th, 2016 at 2:51 pm
Hi Terry – Considering 22 or 24kt gold and platinum are a different colour, it would come down to personal colour choice.
October 11th, 2016 at 1:19 pm
Hi, I recently got engaged back in May. A lady I know asked what metal the ring is made from, I said I wasn’t sure, she said I hope it is platinum because white gold will go yellow and have to be plated every couple of years” Is this true and how long does it normally take to get it re plated?
Also sometimes it looks very shiny some days it looks a little dull…
October 11th, 2016 at 1:22 pm
Hi Nicole
Palladium based white gold won’t go yellow, it just lose the bright lustre that rhodium plating offers. In any case, both white gold and platinum rings should be serviced every 1-2 years.
October 19th, 2016 at 5:56 am
My wife dislocated her ring finger. This resulted in her platinum band and engagement rings being cut off to relocate and exray her finger. What is the best way and most cost effective way of repairing or replacing the rings? Repair or melt metal and buy a new one? ( even if it different metal?) sorry for my nativity in asking.
October 19th, 2016 at 9:44 am
Hi Richard
You may want to visit a few jewellers to get quotes and their opinion on whether or not they can be repaired or they need to be re-made.
January 11th, 2017 at 6:34 am
Hi,
I am looking at getting a platinum engagement ring with pave diamonds on the band but a rose gold wedding ring. Is that possible or would you recommend getting a platinum wedding ring too?
Thank you.
January 11th, 2017 at 11:09 am
Hi Mary
It sounds like an attractive combination. However, be aware that different metals have different hardnesses, so one may wear the other down slightly if worn together.
January 24th, 2017 at 9:17 am
Hi Mary…
I’m considering a Tacori men’s wedding band (104-7). I’m so confused on which metal to go with. Every jeweler has told me something different. I’m torn between platinum and 18k white gold. What are your thoughts and why?
January 24th, 2017 at 2:57 pm
Definitely white gold for a mens wedding ring as if you’re rough with wedding bands then platinum will scratch easier than white gold.
January 31st, 2017 at 12:26 am
I have a platinum wedding band with 11 channel set diamonds along the top. Five years ago I brought it to a reputable private jeweler to have it sized up after having children. Several months after having it resized, a crack appeared in the very bottom of the ring. Shortly after that, a second crack line appeared. I brought it back to the jeweler and they said they would repair it at their cost. About a a year and a half or so after that, the same thing occurred. Two cracks appeared in the exact same spot. This time it actually cracked open entirely. I brought it back to the jeweler. They again said they would repair it. When they gave it back to me after that repair, they pointed out to me visible pitting in the bottom of the band. He said he didn’t know why it kept happening, but that it would probably crack again at some point. He said his recommendation was to wear it until it cracked and then have the shank replaced entirely. I brought it to a second private jeweler who inspected it and said that, yes, it was pitted and weak and that in his opinion they were making it too thin, as thin as possible while still staying within guidelines. So a year went by and the two cracks appeared again. This past weekend (another year later) it cracked open. I brought it back to the jeweler again and this time he said he is replacing the bottom half of the shank entirely. I told him what the other jeweler said about it being too thin and he said he would make it thicker this time. So after all that, and reading what you said above, I am wondering if it is weak and cracking also because they are trying to melt the platinum themselves instead of sending it to be refined as you mentioned. Any thoughts on this? I’m not sure what my next step should be if I once again get it back and cracks appear.
January 31st, 2017 at 1:29 pm
Hi Lee
If the “cracks” were “clean”, they would most likely be the joins where the piece has been added to size it up. Unfortunately, some jewellers aren’t too experienced with Platinum and I’ve seen some shocking resizes done by other jewellers.
March 27th, 2017 at 11:56 am
Hello
My daughter has always had allergies to cheap metal jewelry so she stopped wearing earrings in her pierced ears. Recently I bought her 10k white gold earrings for her birthday. Seems that she is allergic to them. (When I say allergic; she wore them to work and was fine. Two weeks later she wore them again and they made her ear piercings bleed and hurt). Can you recommend the next step in metals for her to try?
Thank you!
March 27th, 2017 at 4:39 pm
Hi Dana
Try asking for a hypo-allergenic alloy.
May 3rd, 2017 at 12:30 pm
Does a white gold bracelet, stamped 18K have 18K yellow gold underneath or a lesser gold. Is the 18K relating to the white gold coating or the actual yellow gold. Reason being that I am being told that even though it is stamped 18K, that the yellow gold under the white gold coating is only 9K. It was sold as 18K white gold.
May 3rd, 2017 at 2:51 pm
Hi Brenden
An 18kt stamp means that the entire item is 18kt, at least it should be. You may want to get the gold independently tested if you are concerned about the purity.
May 29th, 2017 at 2:31 am
Hi! I have a plain 14k white gold 2mm wedding band purchased in the states, where I reside, that has considerably yellowed over the 1 year since purchase. I was considering replacing it with a plain 2mm 950 platinum band but after reading your article it seems like a white gold band purchased from Australia, or somewhere that uses palladium instead of nickel alloys might be a better choice. Can you recommend how/where to purchase a white gold band that will not yellow for a customer in the U.S.? Thanks!!
May 29th, 2017 at 3:36 pm
Hi Josie
Try asking a manufacturing jeweller, as opposed to a jeweller retailer as they will most likely use a palladium based alloy.
July 1st, 2017 at 6:04 am
Is 9ct white gold available/possible?
I want a metal that can keep 18 diamonds 0.5pt with claw settings. x2
Two of these fine bands spiral up around a solitaire diamond. I really don’t want to loose any of the small diamonds but don’t know what metal would be save for thin bands standing up like that.
I know 18ct is harder/stronger than 24. So is 9ct an option?
Thanks for the insightful article
July 3rd, 2017 at 11:39 am
Hi Ineke
Yes, 9kt is fine.
August 10th, 2017 at 3:12 am
Hi
I am looking to purchase a 1ct diamond pendant on a spiga chain. Would the chain and fixing be better in white gold or platinum?
Thanks
August 10th, 2017 at 10:52 am
Hi Michael
I would recommend Platinum, however, Platinum chains can be hard to come by.
August 31st, 2017 at 12:05 pm
Hi Nikhil,
How would recommend selling a used gents wedding ring (Peter W Beck, platinum) for best return in Perth? Directly to refiners? Do they deal with the public direct?
Thanks, I appreciate your time.
August 31st, 2017 at 1:41 pm
Hi Dave
I would be best to ask one of the many gold buyers either in Perth or online. Many are attached or affiliated with refiners.
November 2nd, 2017 at 2:44 am
Hi, We’re hoping to have an edwardian vibe engagement ring created, either filigree or engraving with a low set 6mm OEC and possibly a handful of tiny scattered singles, if any at all. Mini dome style, where it flares out east/west but will still only be 7-8mm north/south, if that makes any sense, and hopefully no taller than 6mm off the finger. I can find a link to similar examples if you would like. I have two jewellers in mind, one is an unknown offering all the nickel free alloys 9k, 10k, 14k and 18k and also platinum in decent weights. The other is a local old family jewellers in the UK so only 9k and 18k or platinum (possible astronomical price with them), probably lighter weight creations but with years of decent reputation behind them. Keeping the budget low is a big deal but we also don’t want to have false economy, buying the cheapest and have to keep repairing the ring or lose stones. Especially the OEC it was a wonderful find. She’s sentimental so will wear it constantly, only ever taking it off for cleaning/sleeping/manual jobs. Which metal or metals would you recommend for this project please? And if you have an opinion on which jeweller to go for that would be a great bonus. Thank you for this article, it’s given me hope we may be able to finally get the ring we’ve been searching for 15 years now!
November 3rd, 2017 at 4:31 pm
Hi Ben
Platinum would be the best for that style of ring if your budget allows.
June 29th, 2018 at 6:25 am
Hi, we got an engagement ring made (with a stone we supplied) in 18ct white gold from a design the jeweler found for us. It has since greyed and I get a reaction from wearing it. The jeweler says it needs rhodium coating every 12-18 months which we weren’t aware of. We purchased a wedding ring from the same jeweler which is also plain 18ct white gold and this hasn’t tarnished. A different jeweler said the engagement ring has nickel in it and looks like it is from overseas whereas the wedding ring was made in Australia and most likely doesn’t contain nickel as it hasn’t tarnished and is brighter.
My question is, is the jeweler accountable for providing 2 different white golds – one which now requires rhodium coating at $50 a time – without telling us? I am so upset about it! Kind regards…
July 3rd, 2018 at 12:40 am
Hi,
We are in the process of having my engagement ring made and are going with a simple french pave band, with a low set 4 prongs. The center stone is 2.9 carats. I have heard conflicting information on the pros and cons of white gold versus platinum as far as maintenance as well as the security of the center stone. The jeweler has recommended white gold as being more secure but I’d like a second opinion.
Thanks!
Natasha
July 4th, 2018 at 4:40 pm
Hi Natasha
Platinum would hold the diamond in more securely.
September 28th, 2018 at 5:07 am
I am interested in getting white gold engagement and wedding rings. I live in West Lafayette, Indiana and my zipcode is 47906. Would you be able to tell me which if any jewelers in my area sell white gold engagement and wedding rings that don’t have nickel in them. I am not allergic to nickel but I have sensitive skin and I am pretty sure that I am senstive to nickel. Thanks much!
September 30th, 2018 at 12:01 pm
What would you recommend for platinum chains.
You say platinum setting woth white gold band is good for rings. What about platinum chains.
What are merits and demerits of platinum chains.
Are platinum jewels are valued same after few years if we go to sale them or to get it exchanged with some other jewel piece as it loses some weight during day to day wear. Does it also need polishing time to time. And are they can be remoulded after few years?
And how to make sure that the platinum jewel we bought is real and are not fooled by jeweller…
October 1st, 2018 at 4:33 pm
Hi Vibhu
Platinum chains should only be used for platinum pendants.
Platinum (or any other jewellery) shouldn’t lose any weight from day to day wear. Similarly, all jewellery will require polishing and servicing at some point in time. Some jewellers can reuse the platinum, but most can not, unlike gold.
October 15th, 2018 at 9:35 am
We have found we can successfully melt up small amounts of platinum off cuts into a small bar with the right temperature flame, crucible, a non iridium based alloy and no more than 30 gms of off cuts, we can reuse for wedding rings and shanks but use virgin alloy for the settings every time.
October 17th, 2018 at 5:08 pm
I’ve been looking into ‘stacking’ rings, can you wear a white/rose gold ring with a platinum ring?
October 18th, 2018 at 11:47 am
Hi Claire
Yes, you can, but the gold rings might wear the platinum rings down as gold alloys are harder than purer platinum alloys.
October 28th, 2018 at 9:02 am
I just bought my wife a 4ct diamond and am having a jeweler design and make her a 2 tone ring, 18K yellow and 14K white. I wanted to set the 4ct diamond in 4 prong Platinum, he is strongly suggesting 14k white with 6 prongs. what’s your opinion? I wanted 4 prong to be able to better see the diamond. also fo note she is planning on this being an everyday wearer..
Thoughts??
October 29th, 2018 at 12:01 pm
Hi Rick
I would definitely recommend Platinum.
November 25th, 2018 at 10:33 pm
Hello Nikhil
Can you advise whether white gold or platinum is better for a chain for a pendant. The pendant is a reasonable size and made of white gold and diamonds, and so I would like the least likely chain to break. Also the person its for is sensitive to silver, at least in earrings. Thank you.
November 26th, 2018 at 4:08 pm
Hi Rosemary
Since most white gold contains silver, platinum would be a better option if you are concerned about an alergic reaction to silver. However, white gold chains are far more prevalent than platinum chains.
December 19th, 2018 at 10:30 pm
Hi Nikhil,
Could you kindly recommend a or a couple of reputable jeweler(s) in Melbourne who can redesign my engagement ring. It is currently a trilogy design, the band is 24k gold but would like to change band into either white gold or.platinum.
Would you also recommend a platinum setting and white gold band for this?
Happy to be guided by your advice.
December 20th, 2018 at 4:25 pm
Hi Jill – Try Klepners on Little Collins St.
April 4th, 2019 at 2:58 am
Hi Nikhil, I recently bought a 18k white gold diamond ring because the jeweller said platinum is softer, more prone to scratches and more prone to jewel lost (falls off) especially for 1 carat and above. He said 18k white gold is stronger and cheaper.
I was convinced because I did not want my diamond to fall off as I will be wearing it daily. After reading your article, is he right on everything except jewel lost?
April 4th, 2019 at 4:54 pm
Hi Sharry
Platinum is less prone to bending, so if the diamond is claw set, then it will take a little more force to say bend the claws than 18kt white gold. Platinum is softer so it is more prone to scratching and denting. That said, both platinum and 18kt white gold are fine choices for an engagement ring.
April 15th, 2019 at 6:48 pm
Hi,
I’m looking to buy a diamond cross. I want to buy a very good quality one to have forever. Would you suggest platinum or white gold is better for long term wear. I was thinking platinum as you need to replate the rhodium in white gold. Your blog is very informative but I think I’m more confused about choosing the metal now. What would you suggest? Also do you suggest anywhere in Sydney to buy a good quality one?
April 16th, 2019 at 5:33 pm
Hi Tessa
For a cross, the choice of metal wouldn’t be too critical as it won’t be subjected to any force like an engagement ring. Given it is a pendant, white gold is far more common and the availability of white gold chains is far more prevalent than platinum chains.
May 7th, 2019 at 7:56 pm
Probably for the first time, I have come across a post that states the differences between the white gold and platinum in such a clear and concise manner. I think you will love to check my website that deals with Australian jewellery https://www.riversidejewellers.com.au/.
May 24th, 2019 at 4:20 am
Hi
Very interesting read, thank you. I’m trying to choose an engagement ring and appropriate wedding band. I’m looking at a platinum shank with a 2.4 ct yellow sapphire set in 4 yellow gold claws. I’m concerned the gold claws may not be strong enough to hold a large centre stone if worn on a daily basis and would a platinum wedding band next to it damage the gold claws – the claw setting sits on the finger not raised above so a band would sit next to the bottom of two of the claws not under it. Is it better to have a yellow gold band, but might that get damaged when rubbing against the platinum on the inside of the finger? I do want to wear my rings daily but don’t want to risk losing the stone, I’m wondering if this is better as a ring worn alone and not next to another?
May 24th, 2019 at 5:08 pm
Hi Lucia
It should be OK to mix metals. If anything, the gold will wear the platinum down as the gold will be harder.
July 7th, 2019 at 10:09 pm
There is a special place in Hell for web-designers who make italic font a main font on the page. Large amounts of italic text is very hard to read for people and it can be used only for short labels/titles/headers.
July 8th, 2019 at 7:28 pm
Interesting. I did however notice the mention of “hypoallergenic”. It’s a made up word, no real medical meaning. It was created in the 80s by another big industry–cosmetics!
October 15th, 2019 at 7:32 pm
This is why I do not really understand the use of platinum bands for wedding bands, if they are for daily wear for decades resizing is likely to be necessary and repair may also be necessary (emergency removal).
I think there is a lot of snobbery when it comes to white gold, that it is a pretender to platinum, but honestly it seems by far the most practical option if white metal is the preference for the band.
Setting and securing stones is of course a different issue.
Glad we have standards here in Australia, Nickel allergies are incredibly common, so it makes jewellery made with it very likely to be unsuitable for the end user.
I love the look of unplated 18k palladium white gold – I also love 18k and 22k yellow gold, they just have such a glow to them ?
October 16th, 2019 at 1:03 am
Thanks for this super useful article – really insightful and a welcome break after reading pages and pages of retailer websites which seem devoid of real information.
Out of interest, what’s your take on 18 carat yellow gold for a men’s wedding band? Aesthetics aside, is it noticeably less robust than 18 carat white gold? Appreciate your insight! 🙂
October 16th, 2019 at 8:52 am
Hi Michael
18kt yellow gold is fine for a mens wedding ring.
October 22nd, 2019 at 6:00 am
Great article! Thanks! Sad that there are not more of them out there.
I really don’t understand why there are so many fake information given to customers, so often they can’t make the right decision.
My girlfriend and me wanted to have some rings/bands which get more easily destroyed over time because we just like to use off things (should not hold forever). Luckily I found a booklet about semifinished parts for juweliers. There you could also find the hardness of different alloyed materials…
So we decided to take the softer platin and we like to see how it gots already scratches, ditches in weeks and they will be probably worn off within the next years (yes they wearing off, we don’t have a comparison to other materials but they do even commercials say they don’t at all). Furthermore they look just like simple cheap steel bands so we don’t have to be afraid getting hijacked and so they also fitting to our simple live and basic fashion. Since we don’t want to sell them any more we also don’t care that they have not so much value like a gold band (since most costs are just labor cost and tax, in Germany only gold is taxfree). If we would have just listened to most of the comercials, we would have probably choosen the wrong material. We really like this weak a bit boring looking platin. Only the costs nearly killid us :(.
November 9th, 2019 at 7:56 pm
White gold is also pretty durable, but its hardness depends on its karat – the lower it is, the less actual gold the piece contains and the harder it is.
November 14th, 2019 at 11:46 pm
GOLD-L=GOD+L(LOVE)=GOLD
Made with love by god.
Soul food containing Adamabtum particles that enrich our inner love light. Gold is powerful not because of what it can buy but by how it is given.. It is made from love and is love and can only absorb the quantum properties by lovingly affecting another. Sharing the love light.. Add a diamond for special delivery. Look at the sun and take some deep breaths. Get it for free and experience the quantum magic. Mindfulness Matters.
November 28th, 2019 at 12:29 pm
My wife’s platinum engagement ring always need repairing. It bends out of shape, the prongs get loose. She hasn’t worn her ring in over 2 years since one of the prongs broke off.
So for our anniversary I’m planning on getting her a new setting. The jeweler feels a 14K white gold would be a better option than platinum. He said it’s stronger than 18k and better than plat.
What do you recommend?
Thanks,
Allen
November 29th, 2019 at 4:59 pm
Hi Allen
It really depends on the individual alloy, as it would vary from jeweller to jeweller, country to country etc.
February 4th, 2020 at 4:33 pm
Amazing this post is very helpful for me as a I am also in the similar business. It is very important to provide value to the customers by giving them right advice.
March 12th, 2020 at 10:19 am
About 4 years ago I bought a 9ct white gold dress ring for occasional wear which has completely cracked open in 2 areas around and under the setting. As a result I have lost 3 small .20 diamonds and have 1 very lose sapphire. I’ve been thinking about ringing the store but am worried they will just pass it off as wear and tear.
March 13th, 2020 at 4:30 pm
Hi Emma
Generally it is quite easy to diagnose the problem, ie: if the ring has come apart at a solder join, it is a soldering problem. I would encourage you to go back to the store and see what they say.
May 1st, 2020 at 1:09 pm
There is a lot of difference between white gold and platinum. But the jewelers didn’t tell all the information about it. Great post. It is very informative post. I have really enjoyed browsing your blog post. I’m happy that you shared this helpful information with us.
June 25th, 2020 at 3:52 am
Hi Nikhil, thank you for your informative post. My question is: should an eternity ring in platinum be thicker than the exact same one done in white gold? We bought my full eternity ring in small sized diamonds pave setting from a different place than the engagement ring’s (engagement ring has 4 prongs high setting and is thin, 0.7 carats); the thickness of the eternity ring is thicker than the similar one I tried as a reference in yellow gold; but they didn’t tell me that the customized platinum will be thicker up until they were done with it. I went back to the place my husband bought the engagement ring from and they told me that it could have been thinner even if it is in platinum. I cannot exchange it nor did any store accept to adjust it as it is a full eternity ring. I am wearing it as is but it is a bit thicker than my engagement ring (although the diamonds are not big; around 0.8 carat in total). I was just wondering if that is normal and if not, could it be adjusted (in a third store) – as I prefer it thinner? Also, do you believe it is worth it or risky for the ring? They also told me that they cannot resize it by 1/2 size smaller either. Thank you!
June 25th, 2020 at 4:22 pm
Hi Stephanie
Generally speaking, when designing and engineering jewellery, we use the same rules for all metals (gold and platinum alloys). Therefore, there shouldn’t be a problem matching your engagement ring. If the diamonds are all the way around, it probably wouldn’t be possible to resize 1/2 size down.
July 10th, 2020 at 7:23 pm
Hi Nikhil,
I’ve inherited 2 platinum rings, neither fit unfortunately. Can you please recommend a jewellers that can resize in Albury/wodonga area that specialise in platinum?
Much appreciated
July 13th, 2020 at 3:37 am
Hello
I have a solitaire platinum engagement ring and would like to add small diamonds on the shoulders of the ring. Probably 6 on each side. Is this something that could be done?
July 13th, 2020 at 12:08 pm
Hi Sarah
Unfortunately I don’t know any jewellers in that area.
July 13th, 2020 at 12:23 pm
Hi Charlotte
Depending on the design and/or skill of the jeweller, it is something that most certainly could be done.
July 25th, 2020 at 5:17 pm
Thank you for the very good information on Gold ect alloys and platinum. Would you, please help me with something off the topic. Please, forgive me if this is not allowed. ?My question is:9cr white gold studs with .34 tcw, H color and brilliant cut, I1 clarity diamonds from Angus and Coote. Cost me for $799 au dollars was a good deal or not? Also, is it allergy free alloys in Australia or in the 9cr whit gold? This is my very first white gold and diamond earrings. I was trying to get a diamond stud but Iam on a smal budget… Even this amount of money I spent on a less then 5 milliméter jewellery I feel guilty about. Although I tried choosing the diamonds to that actually showing up even in deemed light on a white color spectrum and matching my white sapphires(AAAA) .
July 25th, 2020 at 11:12 pm
I have an heirloom platinum ring that I need sized down significantly. Is it useful to me to ask to keep the cut out in case it needs to be sized up in the future? Or is a platinum cut out useless? Also, how long does it take to resize a platinum ring usually?
July 27th, 2020 at 10:39 am
Hi Lia
It is normal practice for the jeweller doing the resize to keep (that is retain the piece and send it to the refiner) the piece that is cut out unless the customer requests otherwise.
July 27th, 2020 at 4:33 pm
Hi Eva
You will have to ask Angus & Coote what their alloy is composed of.
August 14th, 2020 at 12:22 am
Hi last month I ordered a platinum band and chose a diamond. The jewelry store did the installation of the diamond. The prongs are all bent in different directions and it has divots all over the prongs. I am very disappointed, I was expecting perfection for the price I paid. Is this normal or should they fix it? I would appreciate your advice. -Amanda 🙂
August 14th, 2020 at 11:40 am
Hi Amanda
Just take it back to the jeweller – I’m sure they can fix it.
September 5th, 2020 at 2:24 am
I have had a deceased relative ring in my possession for a number of years sitting in a safe place doing nothing.
It’s a silver coloured set with 7 (small) stone ( assumed diamonds ) half eternity ring. It’s a solid ring and rather dull in colour ( doesn’t polish up like silver or gold ).
It has no noticeable assay or hallmarks on the inner shank but it is stamped with the following and in order “9K 7 PT” and appears shinier on the underneath setting of the stones. Only weighs 2.5g
My questions are – Could it be Platinum??? Does Platinum come in a 9K purity??
September 7th, 2020 at 4:37 pm
Hi Steve
It could be two tone, platinum and 9kt white gold. I would check with a jeweller or appraiser if I was concerned.
October 26th, 2020 at 10:55 am
I recently received an platinum engagement ring. Is it okay to stack a gold (of any color) wedding band on top/bottom of platinum engagement ring? Or do you recommend just buying a platinum wedding band?
October 26th, 2020 at 5:02 pm
In my experience, it should be OK. The “stacking” trend certainly is popular nowadays, however, the gold may wear the platinum rings slightly when the rub against each other.
November 17th, 2020 at 9:21 pm
Hi, I am considering having some solitaire diamond stud earrings made – E, VVS1, 1.45 tcwt. I would like a 4 prong Martini setting – would you recommend platinum or 18ct white gold in this instance? Thanks.
November 18th, 2020 at 5:38 pm
Hi Catherine
Usually white gold is more available for earring settings, but if platinum is an option then I would recommend that. Bear in mind earrings aren’t really subject to the same forces that rings are.
February 15th, 2021 at 9:44 pm
I’m in the process of having a custom ring made for my wife to replace her original wedding ring. She wears mostly silver and steel jewelry. She can be hard on her rings and really prefers something low maintenance. I am leaning platinum for these reasons (bright white color, durability, no need to replate). I did not know they made a white gold alloy that was just gold and platinum or palladium though. What is the approximate cost difference between pure platinum (95%) and this alloy in either 18k or 14k and is it available in the US? Would this be a good alternative to platinum or regular white gold that needs to be replated? Can it be left unplated without pitting or causing allergies? How does it compare visually to platinum?
And can you explain how jewelers pour custom jewelry in platinum if it can’t be remelted? This doesn’t seem logical. They have to melt it to pour it so why can’t they remelt it?
Thanks so very much!
February 16th, 2021 at 4:06 pm
Hi Toni….Most palladium alloys are a mix of copper, silver, palladium and gold. They are grey, hence, to brighten them up, they are rhodium plated. Palladium white gold is currently (February 2021) more expensive that platinum. Also, most jewellers can melt very small amounts of platinum, ie: one to two grams, however, it is melted and cast using very expensive machines.
April 5th, 2021 at 3:17 pm
In future articles, I would try and stay away from using the word “whilst” so frequently, as it really hurts the readability.
April 19th, 2021 at 5:34 pm
While fine gold jewelry is easy to sell, it’s hard to wear because the metal is so soft that it requires a lot of maintenance and I mean A LOT. I prefer gold alloy, even though it requires some maintenance from time to time (because of tarnish mostly), it’s harder and easier to wear.
April 26th, 2021 at 1:59 am
Hi Nikhil, excellent article.
I’ve pondered on the material selection for a pair of solitaire diamond stud earrings, 0.8 cwt. From the previous replies I see that you recommend platinum if available to hold the diamond better. How about the backs? Do platinum push backs work well? I have heard that as a soft material it would be soon loose and the 18K white gold would be more durable option. Should I invest on the more secure system like screwbacks or La Pousette’s when going with platinum stud earrings?
April 26th, 2021 at 2:38 pm
Hi Andy
I would just go for 18kt white gold for earrings as they just sit on the ears unlike a ring, as it will most likely be a little cheaper and availability would be much better.